Campeche

Sometimes in life, it’s fun to just get away. That’s exactly what Billy and I decided to do for Valentine’s weekend. Living in Ciudad del Carmen, the daily grind (running out of water, air conditioners breaking, and overall chaos) can get the best of anyone. Luckily, the Yucatan offers a lot of exciting destinations when you need to just kick back and relax. One of our most recently discovered gems, the city of Campeche, is a short 2 hour drive from the island. 

We left Saturday morning with nothing much on the agenda. If you know us, you know that we aren’t planners. We decided to stop along the way in a city called Champoton for a bite to eat. Trip Advisor had a whopping five choices listed, so we set off in search for el numero uno. Upon arrival at what we thought was “Abbey’s”, we noticed a giant inflatable Sol beer bottle and music blaring. I asked if they were having a party. They explained that it was their Grand Opening, and we were their first customers! Two free beers promptly arrived to the table, and we knew that our trip was off to a good start. 

We arrived at our boutique style hotel in the afternoon. Our friends Marc and Raquel had introduced us to Socaire, an inexpensive but totally adorable hotel in Campeche on a previous trip. It is within walking distance of restaurants, bars, and the town square. We checked-in and set out to see the city. Aside from the city wall/fort and a museum, there are not a ton of attractions in Campeche. There is, however, a quaint town square, an enchanting cathedral, and beautiful cobblestone streets with brightly colored buildings. What more do you need for a weekend getaway? We walked up and down the malecon (the boardwalk) checking out the old canons and boats dotted along the gulf. We proceeded to check out “El Centro” which is the downtown area between the old city walls. Campeche has done a great job of preserving the buildings and creating a charming atmosphere for locals and visitors alike.

One of our favorite details of Campeche is the different art exhibits that place sculptures throughout the streets. The theme this time was fantasy creatures which were all very unique to say the least. We spent our afternoon checking out the art and having a beer on Calle 59, imagining we were outside at The Bulldog with friends. Saturday night we had a romantic dinner at Casa Don Gustavo, and of course, ended the night with some vino at one of the nearby street bars. 

We woke up Sunday morning with intentions of visiting the fort. We never found the fort entrance, and the wall was all under construction #fail. After taking a lazy stroll on the waterfront, we decided to head back to Carmen. We stopped at the playa (beach) along the way for the perfect ending to our weekend. We even met up with a few of our friends there and had a nice afternoon relaxing at Tortugueros.

Campeche was just what the doctor ordered. We came back relaxed and rejuvenated. It’s a beautiful town, especially at night when the town square and cathedral are lit up. If you find yourself in the state of Campeche, stop by the capital city for a tranquilo/relaxing evening.

Day of the Dead: Pomuch Cemetery

Last year for Day of the Dead I found it curious that in Ciudad del Carmen there wasn’t the giant celebration I had learned about in Spanish class. While there were the typical bread and sugar skulls at the local bakery, I didn’t see faces painted in skull makeup or extravagantly decorated altars dedicated to those that have passed. Living in Mexico, we are trying to soak up all of the local culture that we can, and I have to say that I was a little disappointed in the lack of celebration. 

A few weeks ago, one of my friends mentioned she and her husband were going to a small town called Pomuch, outside of Campeche, for Day of the Dead. They were going to see the local Mayan descendants clean the bones of their deceased loved ones. I had heard of this ritual the year before, and I honestly thought it was bizarre and a little disturbing. Fast forward one year, and I couldn’t wait to join our friends to learn of an old, local tradition first hand. 

We arrived to the small town of Pomuch Saturday morning, the official Day of the Dead. We weren’t quite sure where the cemetery was. It is a tiny town with some dirt roads and local bread bakeries dotting the streets. After swerving past a few bike taxis and stray dogs, we stopped and asked where the cemetery was located, drove around in circles, and eventually found the cemetery with locals dressed in their best pouring in and out of the gate. 

I read about the ritual before going, to prepare myself for what I was going to witness. The blogs mainly said that the bones are cleaned on November 2nd, which wasn’t the case, at least for this year. Loved ones had been cleaning bones for the past week and finished early Saturday morning.  Instead, what we found were the cleaned bones on display with flowers, candles, and new embroidered blankets. I have to say I was a little relieved. Cleaning the bones of a loved one is an intimate moment, and I was sure I would feel out of place, not to mention disrespectful with a big camera in my hand. Thankfully, we were able to walk around and appreciate the tradition, culture, and oddly enough, the beauty of the different displays each family had put together as a testament of their love without interfering.

Call it morbid, but I was intrigued by the bones. Unless you’re in the medical field, it’s not every day you see what a skull or bones look like up close and personal. We could hear the sound of families praying together and even had the chance to talk to a few of the locals about the tradition. Some things that we learned are that this ritual only takes place in Pomuch, Campeche. More importantly, it is believed that if the family members don’t clean and care for the bones, that the soul of the deceased will become angry and wander the streets lost and lonely. I guess that’s why the cemetery was filled with fresh flowers, statues of angels, and burning candles. It was an experience I’ll never forget.

Delphinus Riviera Maya

Billy and I just got home from a wonderful adventure in Playa del Carmen, Mexico.  I say adventure because I finally visited some of Riviera Maya's main attractions. Wow! I am so impressed. 

Billy's mom and sister were anxious to visit us in Mexico. As fate would have it, the rugby team had a game in Playa del Carmen, and we decided it would be the perfect place to meet. Billy's sister, Renee, had dreamed about swimming with the dolphins, and I am not one to keep someone from fulfilling their dreams. :p Ok, she didn't really have to twist my arm. Before I knew it, all four of us were booked for the Delphinus Primax experience. 

Upon arrival to Delphinus, we were given lockers in which to keep our belongings and a towel. We watched an educational video on how to handle the dolphins delicately and put on our lifejackets, ready to hit the water. We were greeted by Stephanie, our dolphin instructor. Xtabay, a seven-month pregnant dolphin, quickly swam around us. We took turns playing games with Xtabay and posing for some of the cutest pictures I've ever seen. The dolphins were so smart and a joy to be around. We even got to do the "dolphin push" where two dolphins push your feet from behind to lift you out of the water. It was exhilarating. 

The one hour swim went by quickly, but was well worth it. We all had the biggest grins on our faces throughout the swim. Dolphins are incredible creatures, which was only solidified by our time spent in the water with them. I highly recommend the Delphinus experience to anyone headed to Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and the surrounding areas. 

Tips for those interested in swimming with the dolphins:

-Book online, 10 days in advance, and save money!

-Leave sunglasses, jewelry, and other valuables in the locker.

-The pictures are more affordable if you purchase one for your group and share the pictures. 

-Do the dolphin push! We were apprehensive, but it's AMAZING.

Check out Delphinus at http://www.delphinusworld.com

Ciudad del Carmen in Photos

Happy Monday!